
Autumn in Abruzzo begins in earnest in mid-October, down on its wine-growing hills, valleys and Adriatic beaches it’s still a temperate 24C mid-October. Toasted autumnal coats clad the ploughed fields, their furrows contrasting with the laden olive trees nearly ripe for harvest, purples bruising black, and the shrinking, yellowing vine leaves. It is a mellow time to go walking in the Abruzzo lowlands, or even better to take to the highlands, whether it’s rambling in the Gran Sasso or Majella Nature Parks to experience real Abruzzo majesty.
With a slight wind chill the air is crisper in temperature, still a frost-free 10-15C. But you’ll be treated to a spectacle that simply looks like a glass of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo has been poured from a great height over the mountain tops, staining its ancient forest leaves garnet as it descends, finally gently burnishing a shrubby shawl around the sheep’s pastures the colour of the local persimmon fruit.
A great afternoon’s walking is to be had in the Gran Sasso National Park up around Lago Campotosto.
En route a drive up via the acclaimed ‘La Mascionara’ run by Signor Alessio Rinaldo, where even though it is the middle of nowhere locals come from far & wide just to buy this bear of a man’s salami & cheeses (and I mean far & wide, you will never be the only customer in this off-the-beaten-track shop).

Perhaps get some bread and some “Lucifero”, a young Gran Sasso pecorino cheese flavoured with sweet peperoncini strands which is just the best (well, our favourite anyway, of all his award-winning grotto matured and hay clad pecorino cheeses), and some of the best fine salami, then go for a late-lunch picnic and a gentle lakeside stroll.
Drive back down the SS80 road to Teramo and stay the night at Locanda del Cervo (full review to follow, but in the meantime…) this is a former ‘Carabiniere’(Police) station that has been converted into a beautiful restaurant and accommodation and where I ate the lightest, truly most exquisite Polenta con Funghi. Och, those scrummy local wild mushrooms! You can finish off your Abruzzo Autumn treat with the owner roasting you castagne (chestnuts) over the open fire. This intimate little spot is going to be a tourist beehive as it becomes more well-known, so make the most of its wonderful open fireplace and easy access to climbing, canoeing & horse-riding whilst you can.
Further Reading
Locanda del Cervo official website
La Mascionara, Localita Porcinari 67913 (AQ)
How to spot La Mascionara!

Sammy Dunham is a web marketing consultant, designing websites & writing copy to optimise web presence for her clients at webSEOlive. Past lives saw her studying in Firenze after which she taught History of Art & English and lived in Barcelona & The Bahamas. Keen on travel & photography, food & wine, co-editing Life in Abruzzo is her perfect job.![]() ![]() ![]() |
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